![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:10 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
So the cold weather is here. In the mornings it is very hard to get the shifter in gear. However, when I go through the gears a few times and start driving it, the shifter progressively gets better. Later in the day shifting will feel great and I have no issues.
I'm thinking I need new transmission fluid, but I want to make sure that's actually the problem before spending the money to replace it. It's only going to get colder in the mornings so I would like to get this done soon. Any ideas?
It's a 2003 Mach 1 Mustang with 102K miles, a Steeda Tri-ax shifter and I recently got an Exedy Mach 400 clutch along with a Steeda clutch cable and quadrant.
Thanks for any help!
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:13 |
|
Probably trans fluid. My SVT Focus was terrible until I had the clutch replaced and used Ford Trans Honey trans fluid. Still a little stiff until it gets warmed up, but it helped.
You might also replace your shifter bushings and linkages.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:13 |
|
I had this problem with my '95 Cobra. I put synthetic ATF in it and haven't had problems since.
I need to do it to my Manual Legacy as well but haven't had the time.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:16 |
|
Sounds like fluid
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:16 |
|
My GT is the same way. It's probably because you have a thicker fluid and it doesn't heat up as fast, therefore, you get shifting resistance. Unless it's a big issue, I would leave it alone, as thicker fluid means more protection for the transmission. Personally, I'd rather struggle shifting into 2nd gear than risk damaging my transmission. However, I don't know anything about Mustangs.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:17 |
|
Has the trans fluid ever been done?
I've seen plenty of cars do similar things, they shift better after warming up. I think it's in most manuals regarding use in colder climate areas with manual transmission cars. It should say something along the lines of shifting slowly and allowing the car and transmission to warm up fully before more spirited driving.
Trans fluid can help, and honestly should be done, because it's really not just a "fill it and forget it" kind of thing. Plenty of cars do say that they have lifetime fluid, but honestly, not really. My wagon had the fluid done at 146k or so, and being an auto, shifted way better after being done. Whether doing your fluid will make the issue disappear completely is a different matter, and I'd say probably not.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:19 |
|
Gear oil used in manual transmissions has a higher viscosity (thickness) than motor oil or automatic transmission fluid so what you describe is quite common. I doubt that changing the oil will make any difference but you can always try a full synthetic and see if it helps. My 92 is the same way, once you get a bit of heat into the transmission the oil thins out a bit as compared to cold oil. If you start out with a thinner oil it will be too thin when warmed up.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:21 |
|
Manual Transmission Late model mustangs use ATF BTW.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:22 |
|
What trans? 5 speed TR-3650, right?
Chances are you need a fluid change. It will take ATF, NOT gear oil. And it will be something like a Dexron-III rated non-synthetic ATF.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:24 |
|
Every manual I've ever owned (11 of them) has done this to a point. Depends on how bad it is before you start to worry.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:24 |
|
That's true. Slightly annoying but thinking of it that way, I might leave it.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:27 |
|
Both of our M3s have done this.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:29 |
|
I have no idea if it's ever been done. I got it used. But maybe I'll hold off on the change if it wont make a difference. I've got other things that need to be done.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:31 |
|
3650. And I don't think Dexron III is used anymore. I think Tremec reccomends Monile 1 ATF
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:34 |
|
Yes I realize I've made a mistake there. Do you think I'm completely off track that changing the fluid won't help?
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:34 |
|
Ya, I expected it to start happening but not like this. It seems worse then it did back in February . So maybe it is time for a change.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:36 |
|
You could do it yourself, or you can have a shop do it. If a shop does it, you should only be looking at around $100ish.
If you do it, it's the cost of fluid.
I'd think about doing it if you can squeeze it in the budget. The only fluid I didn't do when I got the wagon was the brake fluid, because I've been itching for a police interceptor brake swap.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:37 |
|
No not at all right on the money. I had the same issue with my '95 Cobra and swapping to synthetic ATF fixed it.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:37 |
|
I agree with JGrabowMSt.
In addition (I know you have probably done this) but check the fluid level and the color of the fluid. Get under the car and see how the pan looks (before it gets too cold to do this); see if it looks like it has been leaking, etc.
Use a clean white towel to clean of the dipstick and check for foreign particles on the fluid left on the dipstick.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:40 |
|
I only want to spend so much right now. But I probably should keep the bushings and linkages in mind.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:43 |
|
I just had a lot of work done and there aren't any leaks thankfully.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:44 |
|
Last I checked (March-April or so) Tremec doesn't recommend any synthetics in there. Specifically Royal Purple is bad for the synchros. If it is anything like the T-56 there's a neverending debate about what to use. Some people use synthetics with an additive, some use ATF, some use Synchromesh, etc.
http://www.tremec.com/menu.php?m=110
You may want to give them a call.
Also, here's a TSB. Have a look:
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stories…
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:46 |
|
I would love to do it myself but I don't currently have anything to lift my car unfortunately. I might do it, it has only been in the 50's and will continue to get colder.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:52 |
|
There should be minimal linkage on that 3650 since the shifter directly bolts to the tailshaft housing of the transmission. There is a little plastic bushing where the shifter connected to the transmission. (little black cup in the picture)
![]() 10/10/2014 at 16:59 |
|
That's what I've seen recommended already. So I might do that.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:02 |
|
I've been tempted to call, I might just do that to get a clear answer.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:03 |
|
Yeah, I'd hate to see you follow up this post with a "it shifted great until the synchros went bad"
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:06 |
|
Haha! Me to! I've been concerned with the syncros, apparently they can be a problem with these transmissions.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:07 |
|
Check out the TSB I posted, maybe that's something to look in to.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:10 |
|
Look around on forums for where the drain and fill plugs are, and see whether you can reach them. 2 and 3 ton floor jacks and jack stands are not expensive, and a couple blocks of wood are usually just lying around.
The thing about transmissions is that automatics will show the benefit of fresh fluid more, because the car does the shifting. It becomes noticeably smoother instantly. With a manual, you're doing all the shifting. Old fluid is still bad, but you don't notice it so easily. Also, lacking a dipstick, you have no easy way to see how it looks. It doesn't handle friction as well, it doesn't handle heat as well, and those are the two main things that trans fluid needs to be able to withstand.
Be glad though, my magnum doesn't actually have a drain plug, I have to fully drop the pan to drain it. It has a dipstick (being an auto), but it only shows you so much.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:21 |
|
I can't tell if it's bad or not. When it finally gets back to normal everything is so smooth I don't think anything is wrong. I just haven't been sure whether or not I need to replace it.
And dropping the pan to drain it, must be fun.
![]() 10/10/2014 at 17:29 |
|
When in doubt, fluid is cheaper than the unit.
$100 for a fluid change is peanuts compared to replacing the transmission. If everything goes "back to normal," you're set. If you still have a problem, you've ruled out the first and easiest thing 90% of people completely overlook.
![]() 10/11/2014 at 02:19 |
|
get some of that motorcraft synthetic stuff. It is super expensive but supposed to be the dope crap.